Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Korea Day 3: Bukchon Hanok Village, Changdeokgung Palace, Nanta

Third Day: March 28, 2013

Apart from being a center of latest trends and fashion, the city of Seoul also functions as a window to South Korea's past.  The government has spent numerous efforts in the maintenance of historical sites in an attempt to recreate its past, drawing the Koreans near their roots and constantly drawing admiration from foreigners.  We started our journey to the past at Bukchon Hanok Village.

Bukchon Hanok Village is a home to clusters of hanoks, the Korean word for Korean traditional houses.  One can opt to rent an audio guide for free, allowing one to choose among the given course routes or even to design ones own route while the machine gives directions and information about the place visited.  The place offers a variety of cultural activities for a small fee for those interested to be immersed in the local culture.  We did not participate in any of these, but just walked around the area to fully appreciate the beauty of the architecture of the hanoks and took some photos in five of the selected 8 views of Bukchon, the best views of Bukchon.


Bukchon 3rd View

Bukchon 4th View with countless hanok roofs in the background
Bukchon 5th View

Bukchon 6th View

Bukchon 1st View with Changdeokgung Palace behind

Located nearby is the Changdeokgung Palace.  It served as the secondary palace of the Joseon Dynasty and was declared a UNESCO world heritage in 1997.

Entrance to Changdeokgung Palace
Built at the rear of the palace is the Secret Garden.  This is no ordinary garden.  It is so massive in size that one will get lost without the directions of a tour guide.  Several ponds and pavilions of various shapes can be found inside the garden.

One of the ponds found inside the garden
Thatch-roofed pavilion.  The king does farming himself to experience how it feels to work in the rice field.
Fan-shaped pavilion 
Because we had to catch the 8 pm Nanta show, we did not really have the chance to roam around Changdeokgung Palace.  We only took a quick look at Injeongjeon Area, the place where major state affairs were held, and left.

Injeongjeon
I recommend that one watch the non-verbal, comedy show Nanta even though the ticket price is quite expensive.  One will surely be amazed at how the tapping and hitting of different materials will come to create a harmonious sound.

Just before the start of the show


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Directions to Bukchon Hanok Village: Line 3, Anguk Station, Exit 2
Directions to Changdeokgung Palace: Line 3, Anguk Station, Exit 3


Sunday, September 15, 2013

如梦之梦

八月三十一日二零一三年,台北国家戏剧院





这是我离胡歌最近的一次,也很可能是我这一生离他最近的一次,可是我们之间的距离感觉还是很遥远。他依然是那个备受瞩目的男主角,我也依然是那个忠实的小粉丝,唯有场合有所不同。这一次,不是透过电视的大荧幕,而是《如梦之梦》的戏剧舞台,我很有幸地观赏了胡歌的现场表演。

在剧的开场,一群人顺着时钟针的方向在环形舞台上不停地走。有人走得缓慢,有人走得急促,也有人跑得越来越快。每一个人对速度的掌控隐约述说着个人所选择的生活方式。你是不是时常赶时间,争取每一分,想尽快达到自己所谓的成功而忽略了某些事?你有没有试着放慢脚步,体验人生的美好?

我在人群中努力寻找胡歌的身影。我一直不能确定那个身穿蓝色短袖衬衫背着背包走路缓慢高高瘦瘦的男人是不是他,直到他开口说他第一句台词。对了,是他的声音。

这时,所有人已停下了脚步,一人一句开始讲述庄如梦的故事。庄如梦是一个活在自己梦里的人,天天争取睡觉的时间,活在自己创造的美好世界里,醒来再回到现实生活里。终于有一天,他整整睡了二十四个小时。

如梦的述说方式跟我以往在学校里所看过的话剧比较不一样。故事里的每一个角色至少有两人去饰演,一个担纲述说者,其余的担纲同一角色在不同阶段或状况的扮演者。胡歌主要是上半段五号病人的扮演者。

下一幕,观众被带到了严小梅的故事,一个刚刚从医学院毕业的新医生。在她上班的前晚,她很兴奋地来到了医生爸爸的办公室,希望从他那里得到如同她哥哥们当年从爸爸得到关于做医生伟大使命的训话那般的训话。可是她听到的却只是一句“对自己好一点。” 现实往往跟我们所想像的不一样。在她第一天上班时,在她所负责的五个病人当中,四人陆续死了。因为五人都患了不明的绝症,作为一个医生,她也没办法治好最后的那位病人,可是她还是希望能做点什么减轻他的痛苦。当她把这想法告诉院里的同仁和亲戚,她万万没想到,得到的答案会是:“死亡很正常啊。” 身边的人好像都已经麻木了,失去了做医生时的初衷。我们是不是也一样,不管对多么严重,悲惨的事故都已经被它重复式的存在变得漠不关心了呢?

接着小梅去找她古灵精怪的表妹求助。表妹提供两种办法当参考。第一,呼吸法。吸气,把病人所有的不快乐和痛苦都除掉。吐气,把自己的快乐输入到对方的体内。虽然这是没办法中的办法,可也不见得有实际的效果。所以小梅就开始实行第二种办法,听故事,每天缠着病人逼他说出自己的故事,直到有一天他真的肯说出故事。

在讲自己的故事之前,五号病人先讲了关于一个牧羊人的故事。有一天,牧羊人和妻子来到一片草原中。他躺在妻子的怀里安稳地睡着了。谁知道醒来时,妻子不见了,怎么找也找不着。在寻找的过程中,他遇见一个女人,见她拖着自己丈夫的尸体不知要去哪里,便过去帮她。两人很自然地走到了一起,结婚生子。有一天,有人告诉他,他妻儿死了,他很慌张地到处去找妻儿。忽然间,他醒了。原来一切只是一场梦。他依然在草原上躺在妻子的怀里。就这样他与妻子手牵着手回家了。虽然病人声称这不是他的故事,但我总觉得这段故事在影射他的故事。

这时胡歌出场了。我想要注意他的每一个表情,举动,很可惜,这场戏好像是专门为坐在莲花池的观众而设计的。每当他走到舞台的前方,他总是面向莲花池的观众,背对着我。

五号病人是台北的建筑师。他在排队准备买电影票的时候认识了他老婆。当时,因为老婆被人放了鸽子,她把已经买好的另一张票给了五号。接着两人结婚生子。原本美满的生活因儿子的死亡没了。在这段时间里,老婆不停地在做一场梦。在梦里,有一个男人因为见着她,感到很惊恐,不小心从二楼的阳台坠下死了。两夫妻之间的距离越来越远。偏偏老婆在这时告诉了他一个秘密,原来当年那个放她鸽子的人是女的。他很努力地想修补两人的关系,於是,就邀老婆一起回到两人认识的地方。谁知,他在买票的时候,老婆不见了。他到处找却怎么也找不着。

胡歌拉着台上的路人,寻找老婆的下落的时候,他感到的那份失望,悲伤,我觉得很真实,很自然。

接着他病了。找了无数的医生也没能断出病因。与其等死,他选择环游世界度过余生。

他到巴黎的一家餐厅。在那里,他遇见一个看似中国人,却不会说普通话的女服务员,直到在一次偶然的机会,女服务员听者耳机唱中文歌,他才确认女服务员是中国人。她叫江红,是来自上海偷渡到巴黎的。她和伙伴们包括她的男友在坐船偷渡到巴黎的旅程中被关在船的一个窄小的空间里,导致里面所有的人包括男友都窒息而死除了她。她男友把墙上唯一能引进空气的洞留给了她。她不愿意回想这段不堪的往事,所以选择忘记跟中国有关的一切包括语言。事后,五号和江红日久生情。

有一幕是江红带胡歌回到她家。两人爬着隐形的螺旋式楼梯到江红的房间。两人明明相隔很近,却为了要给观众制造两人是一前一后相隔很远在螺旋式楼梯的不同部分攀爬着的假象,而故意一人低头一人头往上大声地对话。我觉得这样的表演方式很有趣。

江红带五号去找一位算命师,想帮五号找出他病情的前因后果。算命师叫他去一座面向湖的城堡,在那里便可知道答案。有一天,五号看到一身穿着旗袍的女人经过。他跟了,可是那女人的踪影一下子就消失了。就在这个时候,他看到一本杂志,里面写的是关于算命师所说的那座城堡。他很高兴地跟江红去了诺曼底。原本城堡里的房间已经订满了,可是因为有人把他们误认为是日本的一对身份特殊的艺术家夫妻,他们订到了房间。

这期间发生了很多搞笑的桥段。为了支撑他们是日本人的说法,胡歌居然用了很奇怪的腔调,应该是日本人说话的口气,说着普通话。我记得有一幕让我印象深刻。我不记得对白的内容是什么,只记得胡歌说得很认真,严肃,说得越来越激动,到最后完全崩溃。

传说中,城堡前的湖能使自己看见自己。在那里,江红看见了自己的过往,而五号看见了一个男人正在开着枪。

城堡里挂着一幅画。五号认得画里的女人正是他在巴黎所看见的那个穿着旗袍的女人。他从一个老人得知,那个女人叫顾香兰,现在身在上海。他要找她,必须去找她。江红不愿跟他回上海,他也只能孤身去。

在下半场开始的几分钟前,胡歌已经躺在台上的病床上,一动也不动。在下半场的前端,胡歌转为躺在医院五号病人的叙述者。

五号在上海的一家医院找到了顾香兰,耐心地听了她的故事。在讲自己的故事之前,顾香兰先讲了关于一只鸟的故事。有一天,鸟从笼子里被放了出来。它很高兴地飞向外面的世界,享受从未有过的自由。累了就找地方休息。谁知醒来时发现自己又回到了笼子里,可门没关,又飞了出去。隔天又处在笼子里。就这样天天重复着同样的情节。虽然这不是顾香兰的故事,可是我觉得她是在利用这故事来描述她不自由的人生。

顾香兰年轻时是上海的妓女。本来她和王先生两情相悦,已经私订了终生,不料,王先生家里的生意失败了,没钱帮顾香兰赎身。顾香兰也只好跟巴黎来的伯爵亨利结婚到巴黎定居。在顾香兰走之前,她有去找过王先生。王先生因失意在她面前自杀,从二楼的阳台坠下。我觉得这跟之前五号老婆梦里所发生的坠楼事件有所关联,只是我不确定是什么。

我记得顾香兰在跟她在妓院里的姐妹们道别的时候做了一个具有象征性的动作。她把旗袍脱下,只穿内衣离开。这可能代表她身份的转换,从一个卑微的妓女到一位高贵的伯爵夫人,也可能代表她从妓院的笼子里奔向自由的那一瞬间。

她在巴黎居住的地方正是那座面向能看清自己的湖的城堡。伯爵给顾香兰介绍了很多艺术家朋友,想培养她在艺术方面的天分。可这不只改进了顾香兰的艺术技巧,也改变了她传统的思想。她开始不受伯爵的控制,甚至在伯爵帮她办的个人画展处处跟伯爵唱反调,还尝试穿了一件大胆的衣服。伯爵很生气地要她换上旗袍。顾香兰自以为逃出了笼子,却不知只是换了另外一个笼子罢了。

伯爵在一场火车事故意外身亡。顾香兰去银行取钱的时候,银行人员告诉她,现金全被伯爵在火车意外那天取走了。她才恍然大悟一切只是伯爵为了报复她所设计的一个局,就这样她一无所有了。在离开城堡的那一天,她又脱下旗袍,从高贵的伯爵夫人贬为到处流浪的女人。

从那天以后,她到处帮人打工,最后在一家非洲女人的家做事。后来她因发现她女主人的丈夫原来就是伯爵离职了。那时,她住的小房子正是后来江红住的那一间。我不知道这样的安排对故事是不是有特别的意义。有一天,有人敲了顾香兰的门,是王先生!他居然没死而且还邀顾香兰跟他一起回上海过日子。

这时台上放了三张床,代表着三个不同的场景和时代。一个是伯爵躺的病床,一个是老年顾香兰躺的病床,身旁有由胡歌饰演的五号陪着,最左边的是老年五号躺的病床,身旁有严小梅陪着。在顾香兰回到上海之前,她找了躺在病床上,正在受癌症折磨的伯爵,炫耀她要跟王先生回上海了。之后,伯爵就走了。顾香兰的故事也差不多要说完了。她最后叫五号亨利,说她已经原谅他了,代表她已放下了所有的仇恨。这不免让我猜想五号和亨利有某种关联。我忘了是在哪一幕,伯爵有拿着一把枪对着湖开枪,正是五号在湖里看见自己所看见的情节。接着,顾香兰也走了。虽然顾香兰的故事讲完了,可是我没看懂她的故事和五号的病有什么关系。

后来,五号回到巴黎去找江红,可是她人已不见了,只留下了一封信。五号的故事也差不多讲完了。他用力地吸了一口气,把小梅的不快乐都带走,吐了一口气,把自己的快乐送给小梅,接着就走了。

故事在胡歌唱完一首歌画下了句点。胡歌与其他主演,导演赖声川最后在观众的掌声中走到前方向观众行礼。那时是我在整场戏看他最清楚的一次。

请不要怪我把这篇文章写得太长,毕竟我是在叙述一场八小时的戏。这篇主要是写给自己的。因为场内不允许拍照,我连一张留念的照片都没拍到,感觉一切都太不真实,好像这一切都没发生过。我只能记下所有的细节,还有我当下的感觉来证实,说服自己,这是真的,我曾经离他这么近。


Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Korea Day 2: National Museum of Korea, Cheonggyecheon Stream, Myeongdong

Second Day: March 27, 2013

We visited the National Museum of Korea in the morning.  Because we had a walking tour scheduled at 2pm, we only gave ourselves an hour to roam around the museum.  Given the limitation in time, we decided to part ways and each headed to the section of one's interest.

Picture outside National Museum of Korea

Picture outside National Museum of Korea

Picture Outside National Museum of Korea

I went to the painting section.  I immediately noticed the similarity between Korean painting and Chinese painting, both in subject and in technique.

Paintings of the four gentlemen (bamboo, plum blossom, orchid, chrysanthemum), a very common subject in Chinese painting, can be found in the painting collection.

Plum Blossom Painting by Jo Huiryong

Bamboo Painting by Yi Jeong

A wooden plaque enumerating the different brush strokes used in landscape painting, exactly the same as those used in Chinese landscape painting, hung on one wall.
Different Brush Strokes in Joseon Landscape Painting.  Short-Linear Texture Strokes.
Different Brush Strokes in Joseon Landscape Painting.  Hemp-Fiber Texture Strokes.
Different Brush Strokes in Joseon Landscape Painting.  Ox-Tail Texture Strokes.
Different Brush Strokes in Joseon Landscape Painting.  Mi Dots.
Different Brush Strokes in Joseon Landscape Painting.    Vertical Texture Strokes.
Different Brush Strokes in Joseon Landscape Painting.  Ax-Cut Texture Strokes.

Makes me wonder how the two cultures came to develop the same art form and in what ways one differs from the other, if there are any.

We grabbed some gimbap at 711 on our way to Cheonggyecheon Stream; there was no time for lunch.  Still, we arrived late at 230pm and our tour guide was nowhere to be seen.  We had no idea whether he left out of impatience or he had not come at all as suggested by the unanswered phone after numerous calls by my brother; thus, we walked along the stretch of Cheonggyecheon Stream on our own.

Starting point of Cheonggyecheon Stream
History of Cheonggyecheon Stream*:
>  The stream used to be a site where women would do their laundry.
>  In 1958, the water became so polluted that it was covered with concrete.
>  In 1971, an elevated highway was constructed over the stream bed.
>  In 2003, the Cheonggyecheon Restoration Project was started, which would remove the elevated highway and restore the stream.
>  In 2005, the Cheonggyecheon Restoration Project was completed.  The stream was restored to its form today.

*For more information, visit cheonggyecheon.or.kr 

Cheonggyecheon Stream is the place to go for relaxation.  One can just walk along the path as long as one wants, and stop at any point whenever one wishes to.

Various art works can be found along the stream.  Shown here is the  Banchado of King Jeongjo's Royal Parade.  This is a mural painting of King Jeongjo visiting his father's tomb on his mother's 60th birthday in 1795.
We stopped at Jangtonggyo Bridge, the 3rd of the 22 bridges over the stream, and proceeded to Myeongdong for shopping.

Myeongdong Catholic Cathedral

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Directions to National Museum of Korea: Line 4, Ichon Station, Exit 2

Directions to Cheonggyecheon Stream: Line 5, Gwanghwamun Station, Exit 5

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Korea Day 1: Gangnam Area

First Day: March 26, 2013

We arrived at Incheon International Airport at 6am.  Just in time for the 10am walking tour I had reserved days before our trip, or so I thought.  We waited for about an hour in the immigration, partly due to a number of tourists who cut in line.  Then, we rode the wrong train to our hostel.  Instead of taking the ordinary train (one that stops on every station), we took the express train that leads directly to Seoul Station, and had to backtrack two stations to Hongik Station.  We had no idea of which subway exit to go as my brother forgot to take note of the one nearest to our hostel.  A couple of minutes was spent on asking directions, a few more on checking-in, and more on travelling to our destination.  When we finally reached Seolleung, it was way past our scheduled time; it was already 11am.  Fortunately, our tour guide had patiently waited for us.

Seolleung houses the tombs of the 9th king of the Joseon Dynasty and his second wife.  According to our tour guide, during the Joseon Dynasty, the royal family practiced Confucianism and denounced Buddhism.  Because Confucians do not believe in afterlife, there were no funerary objects of any sort buried with the dead as practiced in royal burial ceremonies in other cultures.  This is why when the Japanese came digging for treasures, they found nothing but the remains of the dead.

The burial mounds are located in the high points of the area to signify the high social status associated to the king and his family.  Surrounding them are stone statues of animals, facing outward, ready to protect the king against any impending danger.  Arranged to reflect the order of ranking, the stone status of two civil officials are placed one step lower the burial mound, but one step higher the stone status of two military officials.

Aside from being a historic site, Seolleung is also a home for a forest of pine trees.  I believe this is the reason why the place is frequented by sketchers; we saw amateur artists, each preoccupied with their own work of art, on our way out.

Located five minutes by car is a Buddhist temple, Bongeunsa Temple.  Our tour guide helped us find a temple guide better equipped to tour us around than she is.  We were introduced to two series of paintings mounted on the four walls of one temple.  The first series depicts the life of Buddha from his birth to his enlightenment, while the second series, placed right below the first one, makes use of the story of how a boy was able to tame a cow to symbolize the life of Buddha.  Each painting in the second series corresponds to a painting in the first series.  The walking tour ended in the 23-meter tall Maitreya Buddha Statue, which was constructed for hope of peace between South and North Korea.

Entrance of Bongeunsa Temple

Buddha Statue inside Bongeunsa Temple


Our tour guide then left us pondering on the irony of a Buddhist temple placed side by side with the resting place of an anti-Buddhism royal family.  I highly recommend the Seoul City Walking Tour to anyone who wishes to gain a deeper understanding of some of Seoul's frequently visited spots.

We had lunch in COEX Mall, located just across Bongeunsa Temple.

COEX Mall
We left for Apgujeong-dong after.  Apgujeong-dong is a shopping street renowned for high-end stores.

The building behind is Galleria Department Store in Apgujeong Street.  It houses luxury brand stores.

We were so tired that we decided not to proceed to Garosugil, the Gingko tree-lined street.

And there ends our tour of Gangnam, the area which inspired the song, Gangnam Style.

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For the selection of walking tour routes and to join one, visit http://www.visitseoul.net/en/statics.do?_method=includeHtml&category=/&fname=tour_walk&m=0004004004001&p=04

Directions to Seolleung: Line 2, Seolleung Station, Exit 8